Paradoxical Cartagena, Columbia

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Betty Warner

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Cartagena showcases its Spanish old town and fortresses, all built during the years (1550-1830) of Spanish colonization and designed to fend off pirates and other invaders (including the English in the 1700s, which our guide thought was world changing). These are pretty similar to ones all over the Caribbean.

The Spanish fortress of San Felipe, Cartagena’s primary tourist attraction.

In other places in the city are monuments to Columbia’s war of independence from Spain, oddly baroque and European. Take a look at a couple of those.

Erected in gratitude for the women whose support was essential in the war of independence from Spain, the inscription reads “Don’t Touch Me”. Depending on your perspective, the warning applies to all invaders of Columbia, or it may apply to the brutal treatment of women by the Spanish colonizers. The statue stands on the Plaza of Peace where 12 revolutionaries were publicly and brutally murdered. Their busts surround the plaza.
Two identical Pegasuses look toward the Cartagena Municipal building, across from the Plaza of Peace and out to the Bay. The Municipal Building is faced with the same type of limestone found in Old Town walls.

Elsewhere, the bayfront apartment towers of the Bocagrande neighborhood gleam with modernity and luxurious style while street vendors aggressively hawk fruit and drinks from handcarts everywhere.

In other incomprehensible monuments are these two, one of which celebrated the story of a kidnapped Indian princess, and the other celebrated Columbia’s biodiversity.

Catalina, an indigenous princess, who was kidnapped by a Spanish conquistador and subsequently served as his translator in helping him locate gold and jewels. This likeness in a smaller version is used as a film award in Columbia a la Oscar.
My friend and neighbor shared that this statue is Monumenta de la Maria Cartagena. There are five of these in Columbia, each dedicated to the Columbian fauna, and honoring the convergence of the bird’s song with the people’s lives. The bird is Quiscaulus Mexicanus, which we would call a grackle.

Within walking distance of Old Town and Bocagrande are two large military bases (Army and Navy) patrolled by uniformed and heavily armed young men. A playground near one of the bases featured child size plastic pillboxes complete with turrets. Sorry, I didn’t get photos.


As our ship entered the harbor, we passed a fleet of military ships, and more were visible at the Naval base. Our guide explained that these were there for a ship festival involving 20 countries, 20 warships and 3 submarines engaging in a week’s worth of naval exercises.

The US spends billions in Columbia to reduce drug trafficking, and hoping that Columbia will be able to help stabilize neighboring Venezuela. Travel to Columbia, according to our State Department, should be reconsidered “due to crime and terrorism. Exercise increased caution due to civil unrest and kidnapping. Some areas have increased risk.”

I think I am glad to have had a short visit. It was puzzling, curious and slightly fearsome all in one.

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